Not that long of a drive to Forli, only about and hour from Modesto, er, Regio-Emelio and our hotel is right off the freeway. It's very modern, and they have one room ready for us even though we arrived at noon.We have an unbelievably convoluted plans for the next few days. Lorenzo has to go back to Livorno this afternoon with all the equipment so he can get to the Festival site first thing tomorrow morning. That leaves us here in Forli, on the Adriatic side of Italy, and we will have to take a train to La Spezia for Friday night's show, and then a train to Livorno on Saturday morning. And we have to do it carrying our guitars and bags. Stay tuned to see how it all works out.
Back to this afternoon- Jeff and Jeremy stay at the hotel while Jono, Lorenzo drive about 35 minutes way out in the country. In addition to the ever present grapes there are also pear and fig trees, and lots of ancient farm houses with either fallen roofs or satelite dishes, sometimes both. We are headed to meet a man named Roberto who is an instrument collector and a huge fan of early rock'n'roll. We arrive at his house and he is very enthusiastic and friendly, eager to show off his collection of Fender, Mosrite and off brand guitars. His record collection fills up an entire wall, his CDs and music books fill the other side. In between are two blonde Showman amps and a 1962 Reverb tank. He also serves us some very sweet watermelon which contradicts the heat. After some nostalgia chat, we schlep the huge cabinets downstairs, and the heads, (much bigger amps than we ever use) and into the van. Ivan Pongracic calls, he has just arrived in Livorno from his flight from Michigan. I look forward to seeing him on Saturday.
Back in the van to Forli and the American Graffiti Diner, our club for the night. We load in the amps, and the owner, Ricardo invites us for lunch. So, we head back to the hotel, only about a mile away, to pick up Jeremy and Jeff, then back to the diner. There are many of you who will think it is absolutely insane to go to Italy and eat at a 50's diner. I might agree with you, but... we have been eating, sleeping and dining totally by the designs of others, so, first, we don't really have a choice, and second, comfort food is really appealing right now. I have a chicken Caeser and a chocolate shake! In your face, foodies! As with the The Millwakee 50's Diner we ate a last Wednesday, this is not a strictly commercial attempt to cash in on the diner craze, ala Max's or Denny's. Ricardo is a rockabilly enthusiast, owns a '32 T-Bucket and lamb chop side burns. He lives the life and his passion for the 50's is realized in his restaurant, which is covered with Italian versions of American movies and all kinds of rock and pop iconography from the era, . And the food is great too!
Our hotel is outside of the scenic part of Forli, where ever that might be and without a driver, we are stuck at our business man's hotel until before the show. The AC, showers and internet pass the time. Ricardo shows up just a little after 7:30 to take us to his diner... nobody where's watches here, and there are no clocks in any of the hotel rooms, but people are more or less on time. Now the German's they are on time! Hate to be perpetuating stereotypes, but that's the facts.
We set up, but can't really do a sound check because the restaurant is full of people eating. We have dinner outside with Roberto and his wife. Roberto is such a well connected super fan, that it turns out we have a few friends in common-- small world . We also meet Lucky, a lifetime rocker who several people mention is the #1 rockabilly guy in Italy, He loans us the drums and bass amp, and also all the memorabilia decorating the diner. We are greatly indebted to Luck and Roberto for loaning us equipment for the night. The diner is completely packed, there are a few hot rods in the the parking lot, many motorcycles too. The clientele is covered with tats and dressed up for a night out. No poodle skirts and no tourists. This is the greaser crowd, faux or otherwise. Congratulations to Ricardo for doing such great business!
We played two sets, all the hits. Roberto's Showman amps sound really good as his 1962 Reverb is very sweet. After the show, Roberto takes his gear and Ricardo gifes us a ride back to the hotel, also presenting us with matching American Graffiti T-Shirts.
One personal little bummer about Forli- when I was growing up, my Mom had a beautiful coffee table book about the city of Ravenna and the Basilica di San Vitale, with pictures of it's detailed mosaics. We are so close and can't get there. Next time, he says wistfully.
In the morning in Reggio-Emillio, the hotel has no food. I try to pet the house cat, who is elusive. No lovin'. I settle for a photo. I also snap a few pix of the hotelier's collection of moto trophies and memorablia of what is obviously, a lifetime devoted to riding and camping. Some very cool ethnic masks from all over. Breakfast at cafe, which is steps away from the hostel. 3 euro for coffee, pastry and a peach ice tea drink. To Forli.
ReplyDeleteRicky from America Graffiti is a super enthusiast of all things 50's, cars, rock, and Simpsons (Duff, anyone?). He shows a magazine cover with he and his wife posing in front of their vintage Ford hot rods. These people are COMMITTED to this style/persona. It is very charming. Ricky is short with a huge barrel body...my long lost Italian brother? We hit it off and he is super nice. Ricky insists that we stay for lunch. In addition to delicious salads, shakes and burgers there was a beer called Doppio Malto Gasolin. Double malted gasoline beer? 8% abv? Make mine a liter, please. Delicious, but not cloying or too sweet like other beers of this strength can be.
After lunch, it's back to the hotel for Jeff and me. The others go to get some gear. The hotel is staffed 24/7 so it is no problem getting beer from the lobby. The boys return, Lorenzo leaves for Livorno, and the roommate swap goes down. Jono and I take turns going to the lobby for beers. After a while, I decide to go down and have a coffee. I forget if this got covered, but here goes. A coffee is a shot of espresso in a demi-tasse micro-cup, served with sugar on the side. What I wanted was a latte. what I got was steamed milk. To get what I wanted, I had to order a latte macchiado...It was delicious with a croissant and a couple of pieces of caramel candy.
Elevator in hotel has a floor called "A" above the lobby, but below floor "1", just like my building at home. I still couldn't figure it out right away, and got off on the wrong floor on up and down trips. I'm pretty sure all of us made that mistake at least once. AT the venue the joint is packed. I have never seen "table reserved for..." cards at a diner before. This place is obviously a hot spot for this crowd. The parking lot is full of cool cars and bikes. Some policeman come in for coffee and one shows Jono a picture of his prized Fender guitar. Great steak for dinner. There was a thin cat begging scraps from everyone dining al fresco. Had to get some photos. Many were surprised that I didn't get clawed to ribbons while manipulating the cat in my arms for a photo. I AM the cat whisperer!...not counting the one in Reggio-Emillio.
Different drums. More cymbals than stands. Improvised a cymbal tilter from a tom arm and some duct tape. Fun show followed by deep sleep in comfy room.